Why you need to add AHA to your skin routine
Mecanic exfoliation (sugar/coffee/apricot kernel scrubs, etc) have been proven to be too harsh when used on our face. They tear our skin leaving it red, dry and more susceptible to environmental agressions. Chemical peelings, however,
are getting more and more popular, offering a gentle, yet effective treatment that reveala our skin's glow.
WHAT IS IT:
Hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a natural fruit extract that have been used in the treatment of skin disorders for years. They are also some of the most widely used and studied anti-aging skincare compounds.
According to the skincare author Moghimipour E., clinical trials have shown the effectiveness of these ingredients in reversing the effects of photoaging and improving wrinkles, skin elasticity, tone and hydration.
WHAT IS IN IT:
· Lactic acid from tomato juice.
· Glycolic acid from sugar cane juice.
· Citric acid from lemons, pineapples, oranges, etc.
· Malic acid from apples.
· Tartaric acid from grapes and wine.
WHY IS IT GOOD FOR ME:
When applied to the skin, AHAs stimulate the exfoliation of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum (most superficial skin layer) by interfering with the ionic bonding between these cells. This results in sloughing off dull and rough skin and promoting cellular renewal. Initially used for treatment of hyperkeratosis and other skin conditions affecting subcutaneous turnover, AHAs were found to promote softer, smoother skin, faded wrinkles, lightened age spots, and decreased blemishes. AHAs also improve the subcutaneous barrier function, increase epidermal proliferation and thickness, and restore hydration and pursiness through an increase in hyaluronic acid.
The well-known benefits of AHA’s include:
1. exfoliation: helps to normalise the most superficial skin layer reducing its thickness
3. reduction of fine lines and wrinkles
4. collagen synthesis
5. firming and skin lightening
6. improves absorption of other ingredients (eg serums)
WHO IS IT FOR:
It is deal for mature skin, dull skin, oily skin, acne-prone skin and hyperpigmented skin.
A negative side effect of AHAs may be a sensation of stinging or burning immediately after application, particularly at high concentrations (used weekly) on people with sensitive skin. If you have sensible skin remember to patch test it first and make sure the AHA product you buy is combined with other ingredients that are calming and soothing to the skin and is at low concentration (use daily products). Also avoid using any other acids in your skin after (for instance retinoic acid).
HOW TO USE IT:
Daily in low concentrations of up to the 2% and for up to 15% for more intensive, specific treatments (usually weekly).
If your skin reacts to it, try and use it every other day. Lactic acid is said to be more gentle than glycolic acid but you will have to consider other factors like pH, AHA concentration, origin and blend.
We are testing our super gentle AHA toner in Blue Tansy Skincare lab, so far the results are visible after the first week and smells delish!
According to Diana Tran, Joshua P Townley from Ego Pharmaceuticals An antiaging skin care system containing AHAs and vitamins significantly improves the biomechanical parameters of the skin including wrinkles and skin texture, as well as elasticity without significant adverse effects.
You can see their study here: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4277239/